Can Greek and Spanish cuisines work harmoniously at Myrra by Opa?
Dubai boasts its fair share of excellent Greek restaurants so what does one do to take it a step further? Fuse Greek food with Spanish, as does Myrra by Opa; the latest independent concept at Club Vista Mare on Palm Jumeirah’s eastern shoreline. Greek meze and Spanish tapas offer a similar culinary style – so this fusion marriage has potential to work. Combine that with the same restaurant team as plate-smashing fun and feasts concept Opa, with one of Dubai’s most talented chefs, Tim Newton – and I have high expectations.
The beachfront location is attractive, with an open deck terrace cascading onto the beach. The interior is very much a yellow, floral version of the original Opa. Most pleasingly, the restaurant is busy and so we have to awkwardly wait for a minute or two before being seated at our table on the beach. The warm, moody night sky adds to the occasion and we brace ourselves for a great night. However, service is somewhat clumsy as it takes two waiters to bring us two wine lists and and a beachside menu, before eventually providing the desired a la carte. Orders are taken via an app on the waiter’s phone which I must admit, is not enjoyable or efficient. Watching someone scroll through and search for the dishes is cumbersome compared to the tried-and-tested pen and paper method.
A glass of Matua Pinot Noir is served in plastic glasses but, thankfully, decanted into proper wine glasses upon request. Water, predictably, is only available in imported, expensive form which adds another layer of clumsiness. Water in big, glass bottles but more expensive wine in plastic glasses? A little more thought and care for the customer is required with these details and touches.
We order beef tartare; cured wagyu beef hidden beneath chunky potato chips and Manchego cheese. A very large dish that is much enjoyed when shared. Alongside that is a delightfully balanced sea bream carpaccio that tickles the lips with Serrano chilli and a lightly acidic dressing. We also order the Myrra hummus so we can compare to the glorious hummus ordered multiple times at Opa. Unfortunately, we are served the wrong dish, that is eventually replaced alongside pita pockets. The hummus has the same crispy lamb, but elevated further with feta and pine nuts. The pita is not included in the advertised hummus price, but with an AED15 surcharge that you will not know about, until you get the bill. I’m not sure why the hummus cannot be priced with the bread to avoid a potentially annoying indiscretion.
Kleftiko, a 48-hour braised lamb shoulder served on top of feta mash with Kalamata olive and tomato jus, is moreish and soft. Josper roasted tiger prawns are so close to being brilliant, but the oregano, lemon and chilli butter is a little too genteel when the perfectly soft, sweet prawn meat is crying out for a massive hit of those flavours. The topping of crispy feta-dusted potato looks superb and is addictive to eat. One thing Myrra does very well is creating dishes ideal for sharing – reflective of Greek meze and Spanish tapas. A glance around the many larger tables show we’re not the only ones diving in with fingers and enjoying the array of seafood and meats.
I’m not convinced by my partner’s choice of torrija; a Spanish-style French toast with hazelnut crème Anglaise and chocolate ice cream. It sounds a touch too breakfast-y but I am wrong and the towering dessert is an excellent end to the meal. The star dish of the night comes in the form of tarta da San Timoteo and the description does not belie the reality. A chocolate tart with marshmallow, dulcey chocolate mousse and an unbelievably light crème fraiche ice cream are beautifully balanced with the indulgent tart. The time and skill to make the luxurious mousse is noted and appreciated.
Overall, service is friendly and busy but lacks clear direction. Plenty of senior-looking staff are on hand to show diners to tables but a guiding hand for the waiting team would make a huge difference on such a busy night. The location of Club Vista Mare is undeniably gorgeous and the interior hits the mark intended. The convivial atmosphere is as good as it gets, especially given dining restrictions. The food is largely decent and satisfactory with moments of brilliance. Value for money is promising at AED280 per person (without alcohol) and even more favourable when sharing many dishes between multiple diners. Myrra by Opa scores a respectable 3.5 FooDiva knives out of 5.
The Greek and Spanish cuisines occasionally overlap, and one often enhances the other, usually with key additions such as feta to many meze and tapas-style dishes. For me, it works, but does it beat solely Greek or Spanish? I’m not sure. What do you think – can Greek and Spanish food work together in harmony? Any other cuisines that marry well?
Matt.
Who is guest reviewer Matt? A married man with an obsession for French wine and food, he loves nothing more than trying new restaurants and dishes with his wife and friends. Travel plans are always made around food and he can remember what he was doing on any given day by recalling the meal that he ate. His favourite chefs are Daniel Clifford, Reif Othman and Tommy Banks. You can follow him on Instagram @finediningmatt
Greek and Spanish cuisine mix is a culinary aberration.
So is the so called Fusion mishmash.
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When Chefs are in a culinary quandary, they either destroy a classic dish by claiming to “elevate” it or “fuse” i!
I guess soon on the menu somewhere you can order a nice water bottle of Svalbarði or Nevas while enjoying a Barrel Feta cheese wrap with Jamón Ibérico as Tappas/Mezze for bouchée!