Is Avli by Tashas a temple to modern Greek dining in Dubai?
Avli by Tashas in DIFC has replaced Laluz as the tenth licensed Greek restaurant addition to a saturated Dubai dining scene and one that I am keen to try after my disappointing experience at neighbour GAIA. Avli is the third Dubai-based concept by Greek-South African restaurateur Natasha Sideris (after Tashas and Flamingo Room), promising impressions of modern Athenian culture and rustic, open-air Mediterranean courtyards, known as avli in Greek.
It takes a staggering 12 phone calls to get through to reservations and make a booking. Luckily for Avli, I need to review and don’t give up – but others may not be as patient. This leaves me with the impression that the restaurant must be busy – and it is – reflected in the buzz on a Saturday night as we approach the dramatic entrance. Once inside, we are welcomed by a relaxed, friendly front-of-house team, with genuine smiles from each staff member. The busy restaurant pass is already in full flow and the senses are immediately scintillated by a gleaming bar. The interior is space-chic meets Greek cavern, which matches the range of staff outfits; from Greek goddess to smart business to a uniform that is a modern take of the classic toga. Even the music is modern Greek and pulls off the rare feat of livening the atmosphere without dulling our conversation. The tables are on the small side when dining for two, especially given the mezedes and sharing style of food that lies ahead.
The wine list is extensive and includes an opportunity to try some Greek wines. Avli has invested in the Coravin wine system, however only on one red and a Greek Viognier, which is impressively soft on the palate. I would like to see more Coravin wines available by the glass. The cocktail list looks fun, as do the mocktails which are very popular with the many locals dining. As ever with Dubai mocktails, they are, sadly, priced on a par with alcoholic drinks.
The mezedes promise to be small and not too filling, however are definitely on the generous side. The beetroot salad is colourful and fresh but could do with more of the goat’s cheese crème to make it even better. My scallops are every bit the dream I imagine them to be, having spotted these on Instagram – covered in a delightful panko and lemon crumb and cooked to warm perfection. The fennel salad is the ideal accompaniment, and despite the price of the scallops (AED130), this dish is a must-order.
Main courses of tiger prawns and lamb chops are not available, so we settle for lamb youvetsi; a cut-with-a-spoon soft lamb shank on a base of orzo-tomato sauce. This comforting dish is delayed as Natasha is not happy with the execution. However, this issue is handled with the minimum of fuss and we would not have noticed a delay had they not told us. While waiting, we share an impeccably cooked grilled octopus tentacle that could not have been more Mediterranean. I love the confidence of Natasha and the kitchen to only send dishes that meet the standards expected. A side of Greek fries is resplendent with oregano and seasoning; so much so that I try to make my own the next day.
The star of the show is Natasha herself; a whirlwind of energy and high expectations. I see her checking almost every plate that leaves the pass, communicating with her team, and charming almost every table. I feel as if I am in her house and she is somehow feeding 80+ diners single-handedly. That is the key difference between Avli and GAIA, along with the personable ease at which errors are dealt with – and still being allowed to select my own dessert. The lemon semifreddo is a smooth, silky dream that uses a warm lemon cream to soothe and excite at the same time. Natasha insists that we try her baklava sundae on the house and she even serves it herself. We could not feel more special, but note that she is giving similar love to other tables, too. This pistachio baklava incorporates a tower of brandy snap-like structures, mixed with plenty of mahalepi (rose water milk pudding) ice cream and vissino (Greek sour cherries). It is big enough for four people. We just keep digging our spoons back in, and I am both proud and disappointed to say that the two of us almost finish it!
An authentic Greek coffee rounds off the meal and we notice how busy Avli is; a wonderful mix of Greek and Mediterranean families; Emirati couples and friends; Europeans and Asians. Everyone seems to be having fun, us included – in line with Avli’s press release that the meal should be a celebration of family and friends. Some of the sharing platters we observe draw envious looks as they pass from kitchen to table.
The only downside for me is the price. Obviously, we are compensated for the desserts because of the ‘wait’ for the main course but otherwise the bill would be AED410 per person, without alcohol. This may work out cheaper with the sharing plates or splitting the mezedes between larger groups, but even by Dubai standards, this is expensive. For me, Avli is worth visiting as a special occasion treat, and I cannot wait to return with a big group to try more dishes. Given the excellent experience all round and the outstanding customer service recovery from a minor delay, Avli by Tashas is truly a ‘Parthenon’ temple to modern Greek dining in Dubai and therefore scores a high 4 FooDiva knives out of 5.
Have you tried any of Dubai’s Greek concepts? Which is your favourite?
Matt Broderick.
Who is guest reviewer Matt? A married man with an obsession for French wine and food, he loves nothing more than trying new restaurants and dishes with his wife and friends. Travel plans are always made around food and he can remember what he was doing on any given day by recalling the meal that he ate. His favourite chefs are Michel Roux Jr., Michael Bremner and Tom Kitchin. You can follow him on Instagram @finediningmatt
Thank you for your review. AED410 pp and 4knives is no joke.
You got me sold now which does not happen too often. Going there next week as I have a soft spot for good Greek food.
P.S. As for the apologies for the late serving, you know that this is an old Maître d’ trick to win over the diners……. and it still works!