Guess what the food of Orfali Bros Bistro tastes like

Orfali Bros Bistro is another addition to the ever-growing stable of eateries in Dubai’s Wasl 51 complex, and the second non-licensed venue here after Lana Lusa to be reviewed for FooDiva. Helmed by well known Dubai-based Syrian chef and TV personality Mohammad Orfali, along with his two pastry chef brothers, the bistro promises to deliver ‘taste, texture, ingredients’. Designed to run as a test kitchen, Orfali Bros Bistro boasts a seasonal, regularly-changing menu strewn with locally sourced ingredients – another step in the right direction for Dubai. Interestingly, no cuisine category is indicated in the restaurant’s marketing, but I would describe it as contemporary Middle Eastern.

Unlike another recent restaurant opening, booking is unfussy with online reservations available, as well as the novelty of an actual human answering the telephone. The restaurant is well-lit, both by the large windows and the smiles of the service team, and we are offered a choice of two tables. Our visit is for a very late mid-week lunch, and the atmosphere is surprisingly buoyant with most tables occupied. Mohammad Orfali is working the room, chatting to all of his customers, while meeting with local suppliers. Dibba Bay Oysters happen to pop in whilst we are dining – and I cannot wait to see what they do with these fantastic, local oysters.

The nod to industrial chic with the minimalist interior forms the backdrop to the pastry display that catches my eye straight away. Wassim and Omar Orfali are known for their pastry skills, and, along with the modern Middle Eastern menu, these are the reasons that I am keen to review. A collection of skillfully piped creams and alluring colours adorn the range of pastries that I know will be devoured by me at some point later.

As the current menu draws to a conclusion, four dishes are unavailable, but we have to order first before finding out – mildly annoying. Thankfully, a choice of filtered local water and more expensive imported water are available, but again, you have to ask for this at first. The service team definitely know the menu, and any one of the three waiters can talk about each dish with knowledge and passion. The menu is relatively small – which shows confidence – and has a Middle Eastern tapas feel, so we order a few dishes to share.

Imam bayildi is the first dish and easily our favourite of the meal – soft, smoky eggplant with underlying spicy elements from the accompanying muhammara, tarator and nasturtium. It’s been a long time since I’ve eaten a dish that has levels of complexity similar to a fine wine. Alongside this we enjoy OB croquettes that have Comté cheese and truffle mayo with an indulgent celeriac. The waiter is eager have us try a dish by the name of ‘guess what?’ Known as their ‘most controversial dish’, we are expected to try and guess the three dishes that make up this finely balanced and moreish bowl. I won’t spoil the fun by telling you here, other than the dish contains Latin, Middle Eastern and Italian influences. Incidentally, I score one of the three correctly. Definitely a novel talking point. Drop me a message on Instagram if you really want to know.

One of our mains is shish barak a la gyoza that somehow combines fermented Middle Eastern sausage into a dumpling with yoghurt, pine nuts and mint. Scooping the different elements together is akin to enjoying sausage and mashed potatoes in taste and texture. Very clever and leaves us arguing over who gets the third gyoza. A side of patatas – chips in bravas sauce and aioli – are probably not needed but the crispy chips are smothered in the tangy sauces and impossible to not love. Plenty of pides are on offer, and our choice of chicken and onion musakhan pide is our least favourite dish. The sourdough base is nicely charred but the topping is not as pleasing on the eye as the rest of the menu. It somehow manages to look gloomy, and even though the flavours are bold, the chicken should be more prevalent than the onion – not vice versa.

I have to say, at this point we are completely full. The memories of the pastry display probably should have remained memories. So, naturally, with my sweet tooth, we order four desserts. There are just too many good ones to choose from and if you look at the Orfali Bros Instagram feed, you will know that their desserts are stunning. As a regular visitor to Bordeaux – and indeed, a baker of canelés myself – these are the acid test for me. Generously sized, the famous crust is probably a touch too caramelised, but does hide a wonderfully airy custard centre. The exquisite-looking rose éclair is enjoyed when I get home. The choux pastry is impressively structured and well-packed with a floral cream. The OB banoffee cake is technically delightful and definitely carries the flavours one would expect of a banoffee pie. The star of the show is the karaz. A beautifully presented, glistening faux cherry filled with dark chocolate mousse and sour cherry comes with instructions to cut into four pieces so that you get all the flavours and textures together. The Orfali brothers certainly do deliver on their promise of taste, texture and ingredients. And none more so than with the karaz.

Overall, the food is outstanding and clever, but also incredibly interesting and with the potential to challenge palates as so many dishes embrace different parts of Middle Eastern food culture. Service is charming and genuine to match the light, airy interior that embraces a good-natured atmosphere. Value for money is excellent at AED230 per person for three starters, mains, and four desserts. A sensible couple would order two desserts and pay around AED190 per person to leave contented. The use of local suppliers, seasonal ingredients, and an ever-changing menu means repeat visits are likely.

Add in the effortless charm of Mohammad Orfali who welcomes you into his establishment and you can see why Orfali Bros scores an excellent 4.5 FooDiva knives out of 5 – only the seventh restaurant and the first non-licensed in FooDiva’s decade-long tenure to rank so highly.

More restaurants like Orfali Bros Bistro modernising Middle Eastern cuisine to a fine, fun dining level with local, seasonal ingredients are crucial to mapping Dubai as a global culinary destination.

What do you think Dubai’s dining scene lacks?

Matt

Who is guest reviewer Matt? A married man with an obsession for French wine and food, he loves nothing more than trying new restaurants and dishes with his wife and friends. Travel plans are always made around food and he can remember what he was doing on any given day by recalling the meal that he ate. His favourite chefs are Daniel Clifford, Reif Othman and Tommy Banks. You can follow him on Instagram @finediningmatt

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