Can Sushiyaki compete in Dubai’s crowded Japanese scene?
Let’s see who’s old-school Dubai. Do you remember golden oldie Japengo? With a Japanese and broader Asian menu. The Souk Madinat Jumeirah outpost overlooking the waterway sadly shut shop nearly a decade ago. In 2019, the Food Fund restaurateurs bagged the location and opened cocktail bar-cum-restaurant Americano, which closed last year. Right next to popular sibling Taverna Greek Kitchen. In its place, the group has introduced another homegrown, licensed restaurant, Sushiyaki. A portmanteau of sushi and yakitori. Full circle Japanese.
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Japanese is one of the most prolific, saturated and competitive cuisine categories in Dubai, so I am sceptical of this opening, despite Food Fund’s stellar reputation for homegrown concepts. In good news, at no point am I recognised, which makes me deliriously happy.
A soft refurb, mainly Japanese murals, has transformed the intimate, cosy dining room and expansive terrace into a casual, modern izakaya concept – with much of the original Americano fixtures and furniture untouched. Brownie points for a striking, minimalist and monochrome place setting with carbon fibre cutlery and chopsticks.
Typically with sharing-style concepts, I skip the pricey main courses (only three on this menu) – and order a selection of smaller plates. By now you’ll know, I try and start my meal with a side dish of veggies. Here, char-grilled shishito peppers, broccolini, carrots, asparagus and corn in a citrusy dressing boast a hint of smokiness. So deliciously al dente, we order a second portion.
Crisp, bubbly taco shells of salmon and tuna tartare are bursting with a bold orange zest marinade, whilst fried shiso adds texture. My pet peeve of odd numbers rears its head here with three sole tacos. How are a couple meant to share? Obviously, I eat two. A towering fresh crab and avocado salad mixed with lettuce, peppers, kumquats and lychee – all ingredients generously portioned – is tossed in a sprightly yuzu dressing. I have four clear criteria for a salad – slightly under-dressed and pre-mixed (none of this dressing-on-the-side business); served in a bowl, alongside a large spoon and fork. All are met here.
The maki selection offers an even number of eight rolls. My choice of crispy tuna tartare maki with tobiko fish roe dressed in addictive gochuchang mayo are swiftly demolished, like you would popcorn (except I don’t like popcorn) – and like I would demolish a packet of salt and vinegar crisps.
Onto the yakitori skewers served on mini charcoal grills. Yakitori is the term for Japanese skewered chicken – but popularised as a reference for all skewered meats and veggies. The correct descriptor is in fact kushiyaki. We order three types of protein, each arriving with two skewers, so no arguments. Plump, juicy, tender chicken thigh. Perfectly rare Wagyu beef and cured egg yolk tsukune meatballs with lime zest shavings. And gently seared black cod fillets marinated in shiro miso. All impeccably executed.
That’s eight dishes in total – with no room for dessert. AED277 per person provides incredibly decent value. I am told the chef is Peruvian, and his Nikkei influence is evident. From flavour and technique to quality of ingredients and presentation, the food is flawless and fabulous.
On arrival for an indoor booking, we change our mind and request to sit on the terrace. The response from the hostesses is welcoming and intuitive with an offer of blankets should it get chilly, which it does. Our amiable waiter is well versed on the menu. The only challenge is the struggle to get his attention for our bill – another Dubai pet peeve.
The clientele at Sushiyaki on a Saturday evening in a buzzing Souk Madinat is touristy which hinders the atmosphere, so I hope once word gets out (this review might just help!), residents will flock, like they do to Taverna Greek Kitchen and Folly. It certainly merits lasting more than the four years of predecessor Americano. Here’s to a well-deserved high 4.5 out of 5 knife rating. Japengo would be proud.
So hands up, who recalls Japengo? Any other much-missed golden oldie gems?
A bientôt.
FooDiva. x
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