Lola Taberna Española for pork, glorious pork
Discovering a Dubai restaurant with a licence to cook pork is like searching for a diamond in the desert. So a new independent Spanish tapas restaurant that reveals a menu with 19 out of 57 savoury dishes boasting pork, glorious pork, warrants a review. Lola Taberna Española has replaced Barbary at the Tryp by Wyndham Hotel in Barsha – and is now operated by Sunset Hospitality that runs establishments like Ammos, Luigia and Drift.
As much as I love the prized, acorn-fed Bellota pigs, we skip the freshly carved-at-the-bar Iberian cured cuts, which we eat at home – and focus on testing the kitchen’s prowess with cooked pork dishes – and a few other plates.
Huevos rotos, a literal translation of ‘broken eggs’ arrives as a plate of fried eggs, chips and Iberian jamon, all smashed tableside. The runny egg oozes over hand-cut chips and slivers of jamon – and would make for the perfect hangover cure. A little more generosity with the cured ham is a prerequisite – in line with the restaurant’s Instagram shot of this dish.
Continuing the egg (and pork) theme, a large round potato tortilla with diced chorizo sausage is served on point as a runny ‘omelette’. Here the ingredient portions are more balanced, elevated by a sprinkling of paprika.
The menu showcases many a paella, but instead, we choose from the charcoal grill section. A boneless suckling pig is served pulled and beautifully tender, topped with a layer of crisp pork belly and a single charred lettuce heart on the side. Whilst the flavours are superb and the textures are contrasting – this dish would benefit from more impactful plating – perhaps on a rectangular plate surrounded by more lettuce hearts.
Charred padron peppers are essential for nibbling in a Spanish restaurant. In my book, it’s the equivalent to edamame at a Japanese joint. An anchovy dish is reminiscent of San Sebastian-style pintxos, canapé-style. This umami-laden fish is preserved in olive oil, and sits atop slivers of smokey grilled veggies on crusty baguette slices. The croquettes are available with either jamon or prawns. For a change, we opt for the latter. Piping hot with a freshly fried crunch on the bite – and topped with dollops of aioli.
Six dishes later, we are full, but for the sake of the review, we indulge in a sensational Manchego cheesecake with a scoop of lemon sorbet. The crumbly, cottage cheese-like texture is super light, and the salinity of this iconic Spanish sheep cheese offsets a delicate sweetness. And yes the dessert menu does feature churros – rather large ones apparently.
The wine list offers plenty of good value tipples, sangria and organic Spanish wines included, with bottles starting at AED185. A smooth Rioja with Tempranillo grapes by the glass is priced at AED59 (AED265 per bottle).
The authenticity of the food and menu (dishes are written in Spanish and translated to English) is reflected throughout the concept with both the head chef and manager hailing from Spain; Spanish greetings from the waiting staff; and flamenco-style music, an ode to the famous performer, Lola Flores, who inspires the restaurant’s name.
The service is proactive and intuitive with the waiter asking if we like our eggs runny; changing our plates between courses; bringing over meat knives; and sensing we are full, recommending the cheesecake over the churros. My only qualm is an attempt at upselling olives and Manchego cheese bites when we have already ordered padron peppers for nibbling. We’re in and out in one and a half hours, which might sound obscenely swift, but it’s my dream review time frame. I am not a fan of lingering when on duty.
With no valet (first world problems), we park in the hotel underground, and take the elevator to Lola. This particular ‘entrance’ brings us past the kitchen pass and straight into the restaurant. The lack of a host desk or any human to greet us does not make for a warm welcome. The décor is still very reminiscent of Barbary with the chandeliers and crimson velvet banquettes. A colourful mural of ‘flamenco dancer Lola’ is the most striking design feature. We dine on a Friday evening at 7pm, the day after entertainment in Dubai is temporarily suspended, so, as expected, Lola is a little quiet indoors where we sit, but the terrace is busier – and more guests arrive as we leave.
Value for money Lola certainly is – with a price point of AED220 per person without alcohol. Lola does what it says on the tin – a Spanish tavern – that also happens to serve top notch tapas. The Barsha district along with its neighbours just across the Sheikh Zayed lack a gastro-pub-style establishment for casual, impromptu meals – or a slice or two of jamon with a glass of Rioja. I, for one, am delighted with this new opening, pork choice included – and sincerely hope that Lola and the new management team stick to their core values, unlike the predecessor. Here’s to a four out of five FooDiva knife rating.
Where else in Dubai serves a decent selection of cooked pork dishes?
A bientôt.
FooDiva. x
No comments yet