Bordo Mavi with solely seafood on the menu
A new restaurant in Dubai serving SOLELY seafood. And a few veggie dishes. But ZERO meat. Not even one single dish. So if you’re in the 15 per cent of my Instagram poll further below, then perhaps don’t read on. Fish restaurants in Dubai typically feature a couple of meat dishes to appease those in a group booking who might dislike seafood. So this concept is a rare, refreshing find here, and brave move.
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Bordo Mavi is the latest opening by the 3Fils-cum-Brix team and a Turkish fishmonger, located on the same Jumeirah Fishing Harbour strip. Much of the seafood is sourced sustainably from the Black Sea including prized flying fish and turbot – all on an iced display. Expect a no-reservations, walk-ins policy.
The menu is i-pad only (groan), but, surprisingly for me, I welcome the use of photos to illustrate the vast array of dishes. It would be helpful though if Bordo Mavi would also offer the menu to Mr S, not just me. One of my ongoing pet peeves with Dubai restaurants, is the whipping away of the menu after placing an order, when I specifically request for it to be left at the table. I am going to resort to hiding it under my handbag. Otherwise, the service from our smiley waitress is competent and well-informed, with no irritating upselling.
Chilli pickles with just a hint of heat (a good thing, in my book) – along with baguette slices and wholemeal rolls, all freshly baked in-house apparently, arrive. The butter is hazelnut-flavoured, which I lather on a side order of al dente broccolini – and eat first. In case you’re wondering why, for the last year or so, I try, where possible, to follow Glucose Goddess‘ food hacks.
Another rare find in Dubai is samphire – served here pickled, which works brilliantly as a tangy contrast when mixed into the signature Bordo Mavi layered salad of rocket, chopped tomatoes, a crumbly white cheese from the Black Sea and walnuts. All drizzled with a dressing of pomegranate molasses and EVOO.
A portion of crisps, fried in-house (and topped with yoghurt and melted butter) could be a little toastier.
Shrimps in sizzling butter is the star dish of our lunch. So much so, we nearly order a second portion, but for variety’s sake, we opt to try something else. An all-butter sauce with garlic and chilli powder is decadent and comforting. And made for baguette dipping.
The grilled Spanish octopus with salsa verde is tender, as it should always be, something so many restaurants ruin with overcooking. I would have liked more than the accompaniment of three lonely baby potatoes though.
Anchovies from the Black Sea are quite THE feature on this menu – and we order two different cooking styles. Chargrilled on skewers. A tad dry that would have benefited from more olive oil basting. On the other hand, the casserole of anchovies steamed with white onion, garlic, parsley, butter and chilli flakes is a finer choice for the umami flavour bomb. And bread dipping. Again.
As my mum always says, you need something sweet after a fish feast. Thyme ice cream drizzled with olive oil arrives well on its way to melting – unlike the firm quenelle of hazelnut ice cream. But it’s the former that I would order again for the quirky, well-matched flavour combination. Turkish black tea in dainty glassware and a Turkish coffee conclude a leisurely, al fresco weekend lunch.
When faced with sharing-style menus, like I do here, my top tip is to order a series of small plates, thus avoiding the high ticketed ‘main course’ items, which bigger choice aside, works out more price competitive. AED260 per person to be precise, which is superb value for money. Unlicensed (no alcohol) here. Bordo Mavi should be applauded for offering a casual seafood experience with an enticing menu that differentiates hugely to taverna-style restaurants here – across ingredients, cooking style and presentation.
I am surprised though to see the restaurant so quiet for a Saturday lunch, unlike buzzing sibling Brix Café – but the dining room is mammoth. Perhaps too many covers for a niche concept? I wonder if the seafood-only menu is a deterrent, in particular for groups of friends with varied dietary requirements. Certainly not for me. In fact, this bold move is an incentive. Here’s to a high four out of five FooDiva knife rating.
What do you reckon? Is a seafood-only menu off-putting?
A bientôt.
FooDiva. x
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