Member of The Guild of Food Writers
Member of The Guild of Food Writers

Giannino at Meydan Beach Club – a new Italian stallion?

Meydan Beach Club - DubaiFooDiva should have heard of Giannino, the Michelin and celebrity star-studded Italian restaurant in Milan – but the fact is I hadn’t and the concept has now descended on Dubai at the spankingly all-white, all-new Meydan Beach Club. Where’s that you may ask as I did? Exactly where the derelict sales centre stood on JBR Walk, opposite the Movenpick.

We walked in on a Friday evening the weekend before last to find a brightly lit restaurant and lounge bar with only a handful of tables occupied. Plush lime green banquettes, plump purple cushions and crisp white tablecloths make for a rather regal feel. I hadn’t appreciated until we asked for the wine list that Giannino was still in soft opening, despite having opened over a month ago. Only a couple of wines were available as their Italian wine list was still on order – rather odd don’t you think given this restaurant is operated by Meydan, i.e. the same outfit as Bab Al Shams and the racecourse? Ordering two glasses of prosecco, the waitress appeared confused as it wasn’t on the limited drinks list and wandered off, only for another waitress to return with a chilled bottle ready to pour into wine glasses. No thanks, we’d like champagne flutes please and off she scuttered to fetch some. If you’ve got them why not offer them? Apparently, tableware was also still on order [note, FooDiva was recognised hence the soft opening explanation.]

The menu is divided into antipasti, the pasta primi piatti, risotto, soups and onto fish, meat and classical Milanese specialities for mains. Given the prices…more on that later…FooDiva and Italian chef for hire and author Maurizio Pelli settled on a couple of pasta dishes for starters. My spaghetti arrived perfectly al dente and sprinkled with fresh pepperoncino – but rather than the listed red onion it was swimming in a little too much green spring onion making for a rather watery sauce whilst drowning out the piquant pepperoncino. Meanwhile, M’s fresh, plump tortelli was stuffed with potatoes and string beans, drizzled with Genoese curd, basil pesto sauce and a handful of pine nuts. Fussy M declared it an exceptionally executed dish, whilst FooDiva gobbled one and looked on with food envy.

Spaghetti with fresh pepperoncino and spring onionsGiannino - interiorRavioli stuffed with potatoes, string beans, Genoese curd and basil pesto sauceVeal escalope MilaneseOctopus grilled on coalsRhubarb jelly dessert

My main course of choice had to be the Milanese signature dish of pan fried and breaded veal cutlet – all 280 grams of thick, chunky Dutch veal – a dish the Viennese also stake claim to. With a dash of lemon making for a crunchy yet velvety breaded coat, the meat was so moist and cooked perfectly pink. M argued that a thin boneless veal escalope, a la Viennese-style is a better option for the Milanese, but oh no FooDiva was happily hanging onto this goodie. Crackling slithers of fresh purple potato crisps and juicy oven-baked cherry tomatoes on the vine made for a light and ideal accompaniment.  M’s Scottish octopus grilled on coals was as soft as butter – the most tender I have ever, ever tasted. Groan…more food envy. A mellow puree of squash and yellow bell pepper sauce with a tang of tart balsamic was all that was required to mop it up.

We shared a dessert of rhubarb jelly cubes, which once we’d succumbed to the gelatinous texture of the first bite, were tangy and moreish – dipped into a light yoghurt and sprinkled with a biscuit crumble and the odd blueberry. A modern day adaptation of rhubarb crumble, but hardly Italian. Like Roberto’s, perhaps avoid the fusion influence and stick to simple authentic Italian desserts such as the tiramisu, which in all fairness we didn’t try.

Now for the bad news, prices are extortionate with our primi piatti starters at AED 130 – 160 (antipasti is similarly priced), and mains AED 170 – 250 each! On a par with its Italian godfather we were told when I expressed my horror. A glass of prosecco AED 95. With booze as we know so much more expensive in Dubai, the dining out experience at Giannino here is at a much higher premium than Milan. The food may have impressed, but for a beach club location on a casual strip of Dubai where the service requires fine-tuning, Giannino is pricing itself out of this market and potentially out of diners. A real shame but for that reason, here’s to a three out of five FooDiva knife rating. Reduce your pricing and you may be up for a four, and perhaps even an Italian stallion accolade.

Giannino is located at Meydan Beach Club on JBR Walk (opposite Movenpick). T; +971 4 4333777. E; info@meydanbeach.com Open daily for lunch and dinner. Price per person including a couple of glasses of Prosecco each AED 600. Licensed. Daily beach club pass AED 495 including an AED 250 credit on F&B.

Would you pay that kind of price for a licensed Italian restaurant in this location? As always, love to hear your feedback.

A bientôt.

FooDiva. x

FooDiva Rating: Knife Rating: 3
  • Posted under
    Beach club, Dubai, Dubai Marina, Italian, Licensed, Restaurant Reviews, Restaurants

Web Comments

179 Responses to “Giannino at Meydan Beach Club – a new Italian stallion?”

  1. Francesco October 27, 2012 at 5:37 pm

    It’s hard for a foreigner to understand italian’s pride. Our products are famous all over the world because the country is based on artisans who take very seriously what they do (and we’ve been the best for centuries). Artisans don’t care about selling the product to others, they only want to make the best product (a shoe, a risotto, a car, etc.). A (master) artisan, from the carpenter to Brambilla, will not accept criticisms from people who are not in the same business and with the same skills (or higher), simply because they do not know what it means to create that particular product.
    Yes, you might as well be all potential customers of Giannino and the owner should keep in mind the form of his replies…but a master artisan doesn’t really care. Even the poor carpenter, if critiqued, will keep you out of the shop,no matter who you are. Brambilla will the one who will reject FoodDiva in his Milan/Dubai restaurant. He will rather lose money than pride.

    • Tony C W October 29, 2012 at 7:17 pm

      Francesco,
      In one sentence: Pride and arrogance do not have room in the hospitality industry.

      • Francesco October 29, 2012 at 11:20 pm

        …but Brambilla is there like many other arrogant (Ramsey ?) yet successfull chefs.
        there can be room for defining success, yet I’m sure they are quite aware how the hospitality industry works or they wouldn’t be where they are.

  2. Lynn Schreiber (@LynnCSchreiber) October 27, 2012 at 5:42 pm

    I wrote about this today from a blogger’s perspective. I will admit that Andrea’s comment amused rather than offended me, and I have enjoyed reading the debate here.

    As a great fan of Italy and Italian food, I do question if a meal from one country is ever to be seen in isolation. Is a restaurant no longer ‘authentic’ if it serves a dish that was influenced by a different culture? I would bet that most Brits would struggle to recognise an authentic Italian restaurant, since we seem to wish to have our lasagne served with chips!

    • Philipp November 8, 2012 at 4:27 pm

      nice one Lynn :)))

  3. Michael Cardy October 27, 2012 at 5:52 pm

    This restaurant sums up so much that is wrong with Dubai, it’s too ostentatious and too expansive, you pay major, major money for food that is only average in the west – and specifically in Italy.
    Disappointed with the owners public response, if he knew the way the Arab Lands work, which is not direct criticism more constructive ideas, then he would probably do so much better here.
    Sad really, it won’t last and will be taken over by a bigger and better chef. That’s how it works.

  4. Giulia Morris October 27, 2012 at 6:22 pm

    Yes. Brambilla is italian. No doubt considering his “parole…”

  5. Giulia Morris October 27, 2012 at 7:11 pm

    Yes. MickB is italian. No doubt considering his “parole…”

    • Roberta October 28, 2012 at 12:22 am

      “Italian” doesn’t mean “rude”. Please don’t be indifferent.

      • Giulia Morris October 28, 2012 at 1:57 pm

        Hello Roberta, thanks for your answer.
        If you scroll, you’d read my comment at 9.32 regarding Massimo…

        Have a nice we

  6. marco g October 27, 2012 at 7:28 pm

    Giannino in Milan seems to be exactly like the one in Dubai: decent food for a way to high price. Almost everyone (italian and not) agree on that also in tripadvisor.

    foodiva clearly shows to have no clue about food (otherwise she would not even had entered in giannino) and I don’t see why anyone should follow her suggestions.

  7. Angus October 27, 2012 at 7:34 pm

    The Hidden Question is:
    “FoodDiva is ignorant in italian food?”
    Has she the skills to do her job?
    Do she works for free?

    How much money can move a negative comment in the business of a restaurant from a “food expert”, presented as a opinion leader about food?

    The words non spoken: “if you dont apologize i move my followers against your business..” but…
    the question is:
    FoodDiva is fit for her work?
    Can she be presented like an authority, and keep in consideration about the food and the food culture?

    Halo.
    ..
    Never tryed spaghetty with ketch-up?
    Or laaisaghne alla boilognese with panna.
    …They’re sooo fashion! So div’ine.. so newage..
    Bye bye.

    • Tariq Sanad October 27, 2012 at 9:34 pm

      Dear Angus,

      I think you forget the point that people are entitled to opinion please read the review properly, it was about the food and the extortionate price. You don’t need a degree to talk about food, we eat to live – your points in my opinion are completely irrelevant.

  8. Lila October 27, 2012 at 7:36 pm

    To my opinion, one does not need to be italian to understand, appreciate and criticise italian food. If one goes to Trip Advisor and read the comments about Giannino Milan restaurant, most of them are written by Italians and these are not favourable for the restaurant:

    http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g187849-d1055536-Reviews-Ristorante_Giannino-Milan_Lombardy.html
    A couple of comments in italian and in english:

    -SSLeon
    Milano
    “Incredibile esperienza…negativa, ora vi racconto”
    Reviewed 24 September 2012
    Non ho tanta voglia di sprecare tempo e parole per un ristorante tanto millantato quanto assolutamente nella media per il fatto che il conto esigerebbe almeno una location con qualche stelletta.
    Bene, sono nel mercato dell’organizzazione eventi da 20 anni, chiamo Giannino (in quanto obbligato) per poter effettuare un prenotazione importante e mi risponde una impiegata o cosa, che mi dice che per 40 persone circa ci sarebbe potuto essere posto ma alla condizione di capire di che tipo di clientela fosse…AHAHAHAH, cosa fanno la selezione all ingresso?? gli messo giu’ la cornetta del telefono.
    Da Giannino, ci sono stato diverse volte, non aggiungo altro a qualnto ormai non ci sia gia’ descritto nelle recensioni precedenti alla mia. a mio parere, da evitare
    ci vanno molti vip e quindi se ne parla molto. cibo normale (ne buono ne cattivo) e prezzi alti. volete mangiare bene? ci sono altri posti a milano. volete vedere dei vip(soprattutto del calcio)? andate da giannino.

    -Parto col dire che questo ristorante è famoso solo per le cene dei calciatori di Milan e Inter, in quanto i soci riguardano proprio questi soggetti… il cibo non è il massimo e i prezzi sono alti.. da evitare

    -“What the Hell?”
    Reviewed 28 May 2012
    Found about this restaurant from wikitravel. What a shame, I did not check tripadvisor before going there. This is simply a very ordinary restaurant that thinks it is Michelin 3 etoiles. The atmosphere the decoration etc was normal, and this was the only normal thing in this uber-inflated restaurant. We noted that the prices were a bit high, and we had raised our expectations for the food. What a disappointment! The food, very basic and without originality. We had spaghetti and veal sweetbreads (animelle vitello). In the end, we paid 88 Euros (2 main courses, 1 glass of wine, no entrees, no deserts, no coffees) and were still hungry. I try hard to find anything special in the food to justify the price, but there is none. It is not distinctively different than any food you can find on the street, with the exception that you would have a bigger plate and 10fold cheaper there. What do these people think, serving so little food for incredible prices? On top, 12 euros for the cover charges, I guess that was for the bread they put which had lost all its humidity waiting outside. I had never this stupid in any restaurant before. I regret not complaining there, as we were in a bit rush to the Milano Centrale.
    It says “Since 1899”. I cannot imagine how it survived until now, for me it should close today and never open again.
    I am definitely convinced that wikitravel is biased in having this restaurant as a place they recommend. The fact that this restaurant found some room there cannot be through normal and just means, I hope you understand what I mean.

    -food is nothing special but too expensive for what you eat and the menu is without price. In the end of your dinner you find the surprise written in the bill. i got a little mozzarella, plate of green salad, bottle of water and coffe TOTAL PRICE 70,00 euro. they are mental if you considering also the people around you

  9. Angus October 27, 2012 at 7:44 pm

    If you want low prices go to McDonald or Pizza Hut!
    High rated restaurants are expansive.
    All over the world.
    Not only for italian restaurants.

    The question is the quality, and the knowing of the food, tradition and preparation.
    If you criticize you shoul be not ignorant on your job.
    Expecialli from a position of not a simple facebook user or twitter user but an self-called expert

    So on..

    • Roberta October 28, 2012 at 7:44 pm

      Angus,

      You missed the point… and your statements are not at all valid!! But if you like to know more about Foodiva who is well respected in Dubai, I suggest you check her credentials on her website! I also suggest you read the comments of the professionals in the field like Chef Maurizio Pelli who dined with Foodiva reviewing that restaurant. Or do you not believe that he has the skills??

  10. Massimo October 27, 2012 at 7:47 pm

    Dear Mrs. Wood, i’m italian,i live in Dubai since 6 years and i used to live in Milan for 15 years. I have been in Giannino Milan only one time as the service was very bad and staff very arrogant. Their customer are only football player follower and parvenu, i’m not surprise of their RUDE and UNPOLITE answer, this is their TYPICAL behaviour. I didn’t go to Milan and i will not go to Dubai restaurant, this people have to first respect the customer and learn how to be polite. We will not miss anything!

    • Giulia Morris October 27, 2012 at 9:32 pm

      Italiano elegante…

  11. Mrs Dubai October 27, 2012 at 8:03 pm

    Foodiva, I’ve really enjoyed reading all these comments, and your very balanced and restrained replies. How you must be laughing 🙂

    With regard to the review, it sounds to me like the restaurant is very over-priced for the JBR location. I can’t imagine ever choosing to go there for a smart night out, nor choosing it after spending all day on the beach (at AED500 a pop). Maybe Meydan should have gone with something like local gourmet shawarma brand Wild Peeta to satisfy hungry swimmers!

  12. Natalie October 27, 2012 at 8:09 pm

    This restaurant review, like any other review on FooDiva’s website, was objective, balanced and took into account all aspects of the dining experience.

    It was very complimentary to the food on most counts. I therefore find it hard to understand how the post’s reference to the Milanese signature dish of pan fried and breaded veal cutlet, “all 280 grams of thick, chunky Dutch veal… With a dash of lemon making for a crunchy yet velvety breaded coat, the meat was so moist and cooked perfectly pink” could have been mis-interpreted by some commentators and Andrea himself, as being offensive to the milanese cuisine. Or how a side-comment on the dessert not being “italian” can be taken as a criticism when FooDiva was raving about it by saying “…rhubarb jelly cubee… were tangy and moreish – dipped into a light yoghurt and sprinkled with a biscuit crumble and the odd blueberry”!

    Anyway, i still feel i have to conclude that what made this blog post hugely popular (when i first read it i didnt think it was any more or less critical than others i have read by FooDiva and i certainly didnt think there would be 80+ comments on the blog), and even led to so much media attention, in the UK, Italy and in Dubai, is the chef’s vulgar comments.

    I personally enjoy reading FooDiva’s blog. it gives me information about a restaurant before i go there. It wont determine whether i dine there or not, but it gives her view, which i do value as we seem to have similar taste. As she herself says, a restaurant review is hugely subjective.

    At the end of the day, it is each and everyone’s choice as to where they dine, taking into account as much information as they would like, or none at all. Whether we are black or white, British, Cypriot, Italian, Japanese or French, we all enjoy and appreciate a good meal at a not too OTT price.

    So, please, blogging community readers, lets not get any more personal and offensive vis-a-vis the bloggers of this world, whom we all enjoy reading, otherwise we wouldnt be commenting on this site!

    lets go back to eating!

    best,
    Natalie

  13. Gianni Pasetti (il dutur) October 27, 2012 at 8:27 pm

    Lady and …… no name for sale
    I’m italian, I was born in Milan, I were a customer of Giannino in via Sciesa.
    The Old Giannino
    The Unique Giannino.
    A place of class, elegance, education…. and food harmony.
    None a place for this chef “no name”.

    Every judgements, bad or good, not offensive, must have respect

    ALWAYS

    Sorry Mrs Wood

    Gianni

  14. Gianni Morgan Usai October 27, 2012 at 9:04 pm

    Sorry Mrs Wood,
    we’re a strange mix of cultures & tribal worlds..

    I’ve worked many years in via Sciesa, Milano, near Giannino.. that was only the restaurant for yuppies, ministry and other plastic people..

    Maybe something of these terrible years.. is a queue.. in Dubai..!

    Wine & flowers to you from Italy..!

    Gianni Morgan Usai

  15. max October 27, 2012 at 9:14 pm

    Nice post.
    I hate abroad italian restaurants.
    And I hate expensive italian restaurants.
    I think that the real (and GOOD) typical italian food can only be eaten in small, popular restaurants that is now difficult to find also in Italy.

    But I must say another thing: drinking PROSECCO on flutes is BLASPHEMY: this demonstrate at least a bit ignorance about one of best italian wines

  16. Bardo October 27, 2012 at 9:25 pm

    I dont know Giannino but, in italy in same place peolpe drink prosecco and sparkling wine in wine glass. It’s no bad. The big problem of this top restaurant its the staff, very bad and rude. I like to eat and pay for good plate but professional costumare and rude…… Giannino GAME OVER!

  17. Gian Paolo Gavioli October 27, 2012 at 9:58 pm

    I feel as Italian very embarrassed to read such inappropriate and vulgar reply made by Mr Brambilla.
    I wish Giannino’s owner will publicly apologise for the bad behaviour of his chef.

  18. Giovanni B October 27, 2012 at 10:31 pm

    As an Italian/British national who lives in the UAE I am really surprised at what is being written.

    My understanding is that 2 persons (both of whom know about the Restaurant business – one is a well respected Italian Chef and the other grew up in the hotel business and has worked for international hotels) went for dinner at Giannino on JBR to review the restaurant. As experienced reviewers, and as is the stated policy of FooDiva, they came ‘incognito’ and paid their bill so that they could be objective in their review (no pressure to write pleasant words as they had not received a free meal). #

    It seems they generally liked the food but there were other things that they did not like and these were pointed out in a constructive and professional manner so that management could take action to correct things, since the Restaurant is apparently still in its ‘soft opening’ phase.

    What I do not understand is how Andrea Brambilla who, according to Meydan, is not working in Dubai (and has nothing to do with it) can make statements about the food in Dubai when he could not see what was served. From the information that I have he is not even the No.1 Chef
    at Giannino in Milan but the No.2. Judging by some comments, from other persons, the reviews about Giannino in Milan are not very good and a lot of people seem to beleive that the food is vastly overpriced for the quality of food and service. I suppose this might be OK for the overpaid footballers of Serie A and the film stars to be treated like superstars and pay large sums of money as they earn thousands of euros a day.

    My suggestion is that Andrea Brambilla concentrates on getting good reviews for the food and service in Milan and leave Meydan and the Dubai team to get things right.

    Besides the UK, the story is now also being covered in Italy and this cannot be helping the image of Giannino, so it is time to put an end to this since the Bloggers need the Restaurants to review and the Restaurants need food bloggers and critics to help them raise awareness about their restaurants – after all what comes first, the chicken or the egg?

  19. Paolo PGB October 27, 2012 at 11:24 pm

    Dear Samantha,

    GREAT JOB !! THIS IS NOT ITALIAN CUISINE !

    Please, let me reply to Mr. Brambilla in italian:

    caro (in ogni senso) Sig. Brambilla, gli AMANTI della Cucina italiana e del piacere della tavola sono stufi di questi ridicoli piatti, tutta apparenza e senza sostanza, fatti solo per chi – appunto – vuol solo apparire e non GUSTARE e, soprattutto, nulla sa di Cucina italiana.

    Se qualcuno si azzardasse a mettermi davanti un piatto di quel genere, stia sicuro che mi alzerei e me ne andrei via.

    Se volessi piluccare, lo farei a casa, davanti alla TV. Ma se voglio andare al ristorante, voglio MANGIARE, non pagare i capricci visionari di gente che pensa solo alla pubblicità, al facile guadagno ed all’immagine.

    E Lei, come tutti i Suoi Colleghi, ben sa che chi apprezza e conosce la Cucina italiana non viene nei Vostri ristoranti, ma preferisce ben altri locali, dove servono VERI capolavori culinari, non se la tirano pensando di essere chissà chi ed hanno SEMPRE il locale pieno perchè trattano i Clienti con RISPETTO, offrendo da MANGIARE, non da piluccare.

    Con la balla del “made in Italy” avete veramente disegnato un mondo che è solo nella vostra fantasia e funziona, appunto, solo all’estero, con chi non conosce l’Italia.

    Consiglio a Lei ed ai Suoi colleghi una terapia di UMILTA’ e di iniziare a lavorare in cucina sul serio, CUCINANDO, non prendendo per i fondelli le persone che pagando cifre allucinanti pensano (si auto-convincono, più che altro, per la vergogna) di aver davanti piatti incredibili.

    Vivete su un altro pianeta e quando ve lo ricordano, alzate la cresta come attricette capricciose.

    Sciur Brambilla, lasci perdere, i fessacchiotti non li perderà mai, i Clienti sì.

    Ad maiora

    PGB

  20. valerio October 27, 2012 at 11:42 pm

    While I can understand Mr. Brambilla disappointment reading that a cotoletta alla milanese would be better done with a thin veal steak (and this comment came from an italian chef, shame on you Sir) I really find he lost the opportunity of pointing out the basic incompetence of foodiva about italian food with that totally avoidable and offensive comment.

    About prices, everyone is free of deciding the prices of the things they sell and if there is people willing to spend 30E for a cacio e pepe, it’s their problem. Our problem in italy is that many of those able to waste such money on a simple meal aren’t wasting their money but state’s money intended to be spent in some less selfish way.

  21. Claudia October 27, 2012 at 11:48 pm

    I will never have the budget for a fancy restaurant so I will never have a bite of Giannino’s cotoletta. Nevertheless I would never set food in his restaurant for the simple reason that he, once more, ashamed Italy. We really don’t need a “cuoco” (you may have a Michelin star but you’ll always be a cook called with a french accent) to tarnish our already badly tarnished reputation. Our politics are well enough. You’re required to cook (or your staff is) properly and to offer an enjoyable experience of italian food. Instead you’ll always be reminded only as the potty mouthed cuoco who pissed off an ignorant british woman. Shame on you.

  22. caramello October 27, 2012 at 11:51 pm

    Sorry madam, but 20 years of Berlusconi’s style have made some of us arrogant and unpolite.

  23. Kelly October 27, 2012 at 11:53 pm

    In our today’s modern world of freedom of speech on facebook/twitter etc…those who take part in these discussions should express themselves in a dignified manner without being offensive to others. Chefs could be passionate about their kitchens and their food; they might cook the best food on earth, they could charge what they want but one thing they should not do is to insult their customers in the way Andrea Brambilla did. Be professional and constructive without being arrogant. Accept criticism with grace and do not attack those who visit your restaurant for a full dining experience. I am sure the likes of Giorgio Locatelli, Antonio Carluccio, Gary Rhodes ….would not have reacted this way as they are gentlemen towards a lady blogger! Have in mind that there is always room for improvement in any business. As one Italian reviewer wrote, the Italians are a proud nation but I am sure the vast majority are not rude!

  24. miki October 28, 2012 at 12:13 am

    As a chef and a restaurateur I have to comment on your shortcomings and lack of knowledge when it comes to your comments, your criticism and your reviews.
    I think if you were an art critic and comment on Michelangelo’s style of painting or even the subject of these paintings, with such infantile and limited knowledge both historical (and in this case) gastronomic, then you would be laughed at and ridiculed.
    But to make such off the cuff ignorant comments like you did and having the arrogance to show off such comments, demonstrates a narcisistic trait beyond redemption.
    surely,the chef might have reacted in a rather vulgar way; yet, hey, if he is so passionate and committed to his art, then one would not expect anything less.
    people like you (a little knowledge is so so dangerous) should stick to eating at home.
    The only stupid thing the chef did was bother to go to that god awful land where you moved to.
    If you are in search for excellent food, you go where the produce is, not where the sand is.
    i am not being racist or even xenophibic, but let us face it, if i want truffles, i go to alba; if i want pizza I go to Naples 9with reservations); if i want french cuisine, I go to lyon. If i want proper grub, i go to London. if i want kangaroo meat, i go to australia. If I want Kobe beef, I go to Japan. If I want indian food, i go to india.
    Give over woman.
    you are a third rate pretend critic way out of your depths.
    Sorry.
    Stick to your day job.
    I would be way to embarassed to write a blog about ballet, even though i love it, watch it and travel the world enjoying it. Some of us, know our limits.
    You?
    hmmm.
    honest.
    As if we give a flying fisk (danish for fish) about what you think.
    Stupid comments, poor journalism, irrelavant waste of time.

    • Paperchaser October 28, 2012 at 1:05 am

      You’re amazing. You’ve just accused this woman of wasting everybody’s time, at length, while spelling out one of the most ridiculous commercial propositions I’ve ever read (that, in effect, a cosmopolitan range of high quality restaurants in an international city like Dubai is too much to expect).

      You, sir, are a true Hercules of irrelevancy. Thank you for sharing your flying fisk with us out of pure charity, apparently, since ordinarily you wouldn’t give one.

    • Kelly October 28, 2012 at 6:05 pm

      Miki,
      First of all, it would be proper that you respect the country you refer to and its people as well as all readers here and use appropriate language. Second, I suggest you read the comments written by Chef Maurizio Pelli who accompanied Foodiva to this specific restaurant in Dubai and knows first hand about that whole dining experience. And I can assure you, he understands about food. Third, Chef Brambilla should come out and say if he works for Giannino Dubai as the operators of this establishment declared that he is not an employee of them. He might be passionate about his food but this does not give him the right to insult his customers this way. Happy cooking!!!!

  25. francesca October 28, 2012 at 12:38 am

    The review was polite and accurate.
    Nowhere did Foodiva suggest that her Cotoletta alla Milanese was not nice, she actually was quite happy with it.
    No one drinks Prosecco in flutes in Italy (we use white wine glasses or even tulip-shaped ones) but then in Italy many wine lovers do not even drink Champagne in flutes anymore.
    And yes, the kind of decomposed rhubard trifle can hardly be called italian (in Italy very few people know rhubard and you don’t find it easily). Italy has exported so many very fine desserts (tiramisù, which can be prepared in a thousand creative or traditional ways), o pannacotta which has become a favourite across Europe, why choose a Crumble?

    Diva also said she would give 4 stars if the restaurant lowerstheir price, I don’t think is was so bad a review. Not one to be insulted for, anyway….

  26. Maurizio Pelli October 28, 2012 at 12:56 am

    Having been present at the review of the restaurant Giannino in Dubai by FooDiva, I feel compelled to clarify a few points. In my position as a ‘chef’ even though unconventional (private chef) and customer (for the past forty years customer of the most exclusive hotels and restaurants around the world) I know what goes on behind the barricades of the two parties.

    Given the fact that the review was extremely positive in terms of food quality (received three ‘knives’ out of five), authenticity and execution of the dishes tested (which is not very common in Dubai) by FooDiva (one of her most positive reviews) as well as from my side (considering I am not the easiest to please in terms of Italian food abroad for which I published a book “Fettuccine Alfredo, Spaghetti Bolognaise & Caesar Salad: The Triumph of the World’s False Italian Cuisine”), I do not understand the aggressive intervention, particularly vulgar and consequently absolutely out of line made by the chef de cuisine Andrea Brambilla of the Milan restaurant. My opinion is that chef Andrea should have been very pleased with this review.

    The criticism leveled at the restaurant was on the service, the absence of the wine list and the prices. So it is a responsibility of the management here locally rather than the chef of the Milan restaurant to respond.

    Also Mr Brambilla completely misunderstood the reference to the paternity of the cutlet between Milan and Vienna made by FooDiva. She was referring to the authorship of the method of “panare” and how to cook a veal cutlet with bread crumbs (strictly veal on the bone and cooked in a cast iron pan with clarified butter) or a pork cutlet (boneless pork and cooked in lard) and the attribution of the authorship of the veal cutlet in Milan or Vienna. I am positive that she did not make a wrong judgement as she read my book a year before it was published in which I have dedicated a whole chapter on this argument.

    Regarding the choice of glass for Prosecco, the specific Riedel glass was not offered to us (I was present at the Riedel event in Dubai along with FooDiva). In this case however the preference between a common white wine glass (almost similar) as stated by Mr Brambilla himself, would have fallen without a doubt on a flute, or at least we should have been given the choice between the two glasses, since it is a personal taste (bubble lovers will use the flute rather than a white wine glass). There is a similar champagne glass problem in the French Provence, which they elegantly solved with the option of offering both types of glasses (white wine and flute) to the guests, avoiding impolite criticism to the guests (not just in chic Saint Tropez restaurants but also on the beach – Nikki Beach, Tahiti, etc.). We also should not forget that before the economic boom in 1960’s few in Provence and Trentino could afford the flute for which the white wine glass remained traditional…!

    As FooDiva said, there were indeed two sauces accompanying the octopus, not just the one as you can see in the photo. She was also not questioning the use of rhubarb in Italy, let alone its presence for hundreds of years, as well as having inspired the famous Rabarbaro Zucca, present in the ingredients of most of the “amari” and Italian digestives. She only mentioned that rhubarb is not a main ingredient used for preparation of traditional Italian desserts.

    Aside from the pricing, the restaurant’s weaknesses were the lack of a wine list with only two wines on offer (plus the prosecco we had to ask for), the location at JBR (not a prime one compared to restaurants such as La Petite Maison and Zuma in Dubai International Financial Center) and the lack of salt and pepper shakers on the table, the olive oil demanded and not delivered plus the missing tableware – clearly a restaurant still in soft opening. Finally, after all discussed, I think the three knives assigned by Foodiva are well balanced and well given.

    I would like to praise the Italian chef at Giannino Dubai with whom we had a pleasant conversation and who was very professional and polite. The same goes to the restaurant manager with whom we exchanged our opinion as well. The waiters were smiling and friendly but not quite ready to meet the international Dubai clientele with high demands and different requests. I hope the team can address the above issues, pricing included.

    Surely you will agree (in my humble opinion) that at this point only the Giannino restaurant in Milan can put an end to this forum discussion by apologising for Chef Brambilla’s inappropriate and vulgar comments in an environment where elegance, class and good taste should triumph.

    Thanking you for your attention, I wish you ‘good food’ & ‘good chatting’
    Maurizio Pelli
    Author and Private chef

    • Lukas Kratochvil October 28, 2012 at 8:53 am

      Mr Pelli

      This is a thoughtful and articulate post. I read about the Milan chef’s reaction in the newspaper and like many others then ventured to this website for the first time, out of curiosity. Lots of opinions and hot air in the other posts, but you cut right through the BS and clear things up.

      Also, it looks like a win-win for all three parties involved: the chef in Milan appears vulgar, but many will take that for eccentricity and passion about his art, and all publicity is good publicity (as long as it does not involve criticism of the food, which obviously it does not as the review is about the Dubai rather than Milan operations); you mention your book and i am sure that some people reading this will check if they can buy it on amazon.com; and the blogger probably has the highest volume of traffic ever to her site. Everyone wins.

      On drinking champagne and other sparkling out of a flute: as a general comment, I don’t get why people do it at all. A flute looks good, and I suppose is the best way to preserve the bubbles for the greatest length of time, but if you don’t spend ages over one glass then surely the flute is the worst glass for properly enjoying a good champagne. Granted, with a usually fairly one-dimensional Prosecco, it probably doesn’t matter much, but if drinking a great vintage champagne, surely a wider rimmed glass would give you infinitely more enjoyment and enhance your ability to enjoy the nose of the champagne.

      I love to match food with champagne (again – never got many people’s fascistic adherence to the concept of champagne as a mere aperitif) and would really be cheating myself out of some of the quality of the experience by drinking it out of a flute. Personal choice of course and I wouldn’t begrudge people the flute if they want it, but it seems to me to be a tradition that has somehow developed and most people don’t know why, but insist on it and in my view at least deprive themselves of part of the sensory pleasure of drinking a good champagne.

      Lukas

      • Catherine October 28, 2012 at 2:34 pm

        Having never visited Giannino’s in either Dubai or Milano I have no comment about this place but the glassware and wine list issue is another thing.

        In Dubai if you are visiting a new restaurant, before going I would strongly recommend calling to ask about availability of alcohol. Soft opening means “Not Ready” in SO many cases. The mystery of getting one’s wine delivered to a new restaurant in a timely fashion escapes me but I’m not on that side of the wine/beer/spirits game here. Considering all of the hubbub around Giannino’s reputation it was a surprise to hear of only a small selection available. Hence the hint to call and ask.

        As a Certified Sommelier by the Court of Master’s in London and the WSET I can state that the decision of glassware for one’s prosecco, or any other beverage, is purely personal. While I believe that the mousse and delicate flavors of a quality prosecco are best served by a flute (G. Riedel) , others may disagree. And that’s not a bad thing. Not so long ago coupe style glasses were all the fashion and most sparkling wine was served in them without question. It comes down to personal preference and the customer is ALWAYS right. As YOU like it is the way to have it, especially at the prices we pay in the UAE to consume alcohol.

        If a sommelier or table server poo-poos or refuses your request for a certain type of glass for your beverage you should immediately speak to the manager and also not tip them. Bad service should never be rewarded IMO. Should a sufficient recovery and apology for ignorance be forthcoming that’s another story. If you want whiskey in a tea cup or beer in a flute you should have it-without hesitation, provided that the requested vessel is available.

    • antonio October 28, 2012 at 4:14 pm

      before the economic boom in 1960’s few in Trentino could afford the flute, and fewer in Veneto that’s actually where prosecco comes from 🙂

  27. M Recordati October 28, 2012 at 1:35 am

    Dear Madam, your review might not have been very accurate, at least when seen from an Italian point of view – and as you might have noticed, Italians consumers are “gastro-arrogant” and very punctilious when it comes to recipes and gastronomic knowledge. When you say what you said about the cotoletta alla milanese, well, we raise our eyebrows! 🙂 (What was Mr Pelli thinking when he told you such things about the Wienerschnitzel!? He surely is not Milanese!)

    BUT. The answer of Brambilla was shameful. I hope you did not take offense. His words were ridiculous (or pathetic, you choose).

    I’m half Italian and half Greek, as you. Do you really believe that octopus has to be soft as butter? I disagree, but that’s my personal opinion.

    Kind regards and good luck with your blog,

    MR

  28. Brendan Sullivan October 28, 2012 at 1:53 am

    I believe a case can be made for both sides here. It is very likely that much care and pride went into opening this restaurant and that area of the world is significantly more expensive. It seems aside from some obsevations you made which Chef took exception too, you gave a review supporting the culinary efforts.

    I am heading to Dubai in a couple weeks and will likely check the restaurant out.

  29. Lorenzo October 28, 2012 at 1:54 am

    Rudness is not justifiable. The “new” Giannino in Milan is an awful restaurant, because of the food and for many other reasons. Not surprised that the chef could be that unpolite.
    Anyway, before pretending to review an italian restaurant, please, spend some years in our country; not weeks or months: years. I understand that talking without knowing is so much easier, but it’s quite tiresome when someone who asks for a flûte to drink a prosecco then wants even to teach how should be liquid or not a pasta sauce, in particular if there isn’t the right way to make it, since in every village of our country is possible to find a different recipe of it. And, about the review of Bice I have just read, it’s “buonO”. We have one of the most ancient -and probably the most beatifull- languages in the world: please, don’t waste it in a poor show-off.

  30. Natalie October 28, 2012 at 2:01 am

    What i am posting now is not directly related to the blog post. It is simply an observation that has occured to me in reading all these comments.

    Italians are quick to defend their cuisine. So far so good.

    Only italians can understand italian cuisine. Not good at all.

    When an italian disagrees with another italian it means he isnt from the same region.

    Conclusion: How this country and its people function will always be a big Mystery to me.

    • Lukas Kratochvil October 28, 2012 at 8:59 am

      Natalie

      It doesn’t function. My wife’s parents have been restoring a little castello in Tuscany for the last 12 years, and their experiences could fill books. You will meet many creative and interesting people there and the food and wine are out of this world, but the country ( at lest its middle part which I can talk about at length) does not function at all.

      Lukas

  31. Fab October 28, 2012 at 5:08 am

    Seriously, take a look at the customers’ review of Giannino (the Milan one) on Tripadvisor:

    http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g187849-d1055536-Reviews-Ristorante_Giannino-Milan_Lombardy.html#REVIEWS

    the chef of a restaurant with such bad comments should have the decency to shut up…

  32. Lila October 28, 2012 at 9:29 am

    Well written facts by Maurizio Pelli who was dining with Foodiva at Giannino Dubai. Keep up the good work, Foodiva.
    The unreasonable reaction of a temperamental Italian chef is demonstrated below in the link to Daily Mail/UK.

    http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2224013/Contain-orgasm-ignorance-Michelin-starred-chef-blasts-restaurant-bloggers-review.html

  33. Paula Bell October 28, 2012 at 9:44 am

    Unbelievably arrogant and vulgar comment from Chef Brambilla. I hope your employer realizes that your comments could affect the successful business of a newly opened restaurant, and takes action accordingly. Restaurants owners make expensive and elaborate marketing programs to launch a classy and top quality restaurant and then…all it takes is a pompous chef to destroy the hard work!
    So tell us, what should YOU put on your mouth to contain your verbal diarrhea?

  34. laurs October 28, 2012 at 10:27 am

    Well, I’ll never be eating at this restaurant simply based upon the Chef’s defensive tirade against a blogger. Even if it were excellent, it’s the principle that counts. Meydan, get your guy in line or your reputation is ruined.

  35. Klelia October 28, 2012 at 12:23 pm

    Many readers do not realize that Chef Brambilla was not present at the Giannino Dubai, therefore how can he comment from distance in such an arrogant way? I wonder, has he been to Dubai? Has he worked in this restaurant? The answer is obvious as the operators of the specific restaurant wrote: ‘We would like to clarify that Andrea Brambilla is not an employee of Meydan Beach or Giannino Dubai. His opinions are his own and are in no way representative of our team”.

  36. Diodato Buonora October 28, 2012 at 12:45 pm

    Sono tanti i ristoranti italiani come Giannino che credono di valere qualcosa, ma in realtà sono tutt’altro. Quello che scrive Samantha Wood non mi sorprende come non mi sorprende il linguaggio usato dallo chef per replicare. L’ospitalità, la professionalità e il bon ton, sono praticamente scomparsi nella ristorazione moderna italiana.

  37. Alberto October 28, 2012 at 3:15 pm

    Samantha I agree, the service is often non aligned with the price in Dubai.
    A good restaurant should take this feedback to improve and give to customer a better experience.

  38. Mano October 28, 2012 at 3:55 pm

    Prices are high even for Dubai…

  39. Laura October 28, 2012 at 3:56 pm

    Chiedo scusa personalmente io alla signora poiche’ da Italiana e da donna mi son sentita imbarazzata per una tal risposta. Noi italiani esportiamo prima che buon cibo, cultura ed educazione : qualità di cui il signor chef sembra sprovvisto. Leggendo la notizia mi son subito chiesta:Cosa hanno imparato questi novelli cuochi dalla professionalita’, dal genio creativo, dalla signorilita’ di Gualtiero Marchesi?
    Nulla! Solo tanta arroganza e poca sostanza.
    Cara signora, se posso dirle la mia (da italiana amante della tipica cucina italiana), io un dolce al rabarbaro non lo avrei proprio nemmeno ordinato! Se posso darle un consiglio venga a mangiare in Italia nei ristoranti a conduzione familiare,venga nelle trattorie storiche di Roma, nelle locande dei pescatori; si faccia invitare ad un pranzo della domenica di una nonna emiliana, vada ad assaporare i dolci nelle pasticcerie sperdute sulle pendici Dell’ Etna; si vada ad assaporare dei buoni prosecchi direttamente nelle cantine del Veneto. Snobbi questi rinomati Chef che hanno davvero poco di Made in Italy. Il suo palato la ringrazierà e avrà speso anche molto meno.

  40. Marco October 28, 2012 at 4:43 pm

    I am sure the owner of Giannino will offer his apologies for the words his chef said; in the meantime I apologize as an Italian.
    Being so rude and vulgar does not represent how Italians relate to other people.
    Believe me, the fact that my country, in the person of his Prime Minister Berlusconi, was represented by a similar unpolite guy, recently officially declared outlaw and condemned for fraud, in the past 15 years is just a coincidence.

  41. la linea (mauro) October 28, 2012 at 5:04 pm

    btw: I also prefer prosecco in a standard wine glass

    for the rest: Giannino has had his years (the 80s), now they are over. For somebody interested in tasting different food styles it’s by far a negligible destination.

  42. Greta October 28, 2012 at 9:16 pm

    Finally also the italian newspaper “Corriere della Sera” is reporting what’s happening after Mr Brambilla’s comment. Nice to read all the cute adjectives used to describe Samantha’s behaviour. Check http://www.corriere.it/esteri/12_ottobre_27/blogger-ristorante-italiano-emirati_96a5e244-2034-11e2-9aa4-ea03c1b31ec9.shtml

  43. Marlen Taffarello October 28, 2012 at 10:07 pm

    Sam because I believe you are ‘balanced’ – am also certain that you did not go out of your way to offend. As a fellow Italian and (Venetian) who has (sacrilidge) drank proseccvo out of non fluted glasses… I would like to apologies for any offense Mr Brambilla caused by his unnecessary attack on your critique. The ‘proof is in the pudding’Sam – why not wait to see how successful Giannino at Meydan Beach Club becomes…. Mr Brambilla might do well to hire a PR person without attitude?!

  44. Kuki October 28, 2012 at 10:08 pm

    Italian here, and good food lover (http://cookingkuki.blogspot.it/).

    I perfectly understand the points of the review and believe that chef Brambilla simply overreacted to what he thought being a negative review, but for a starred restaurant a lacking service and such a poor list of wines are not forgiveable.

    As for the price, donnow what restaurants in Dubai do usually charge but I believe they’re quite expensive as everything there. Just to give a comparison, yesterday for à la carte breakfast at The Delano Miami they charged 220$ for 2 scrambled eggs with juices. Whether it’s a theft or not (and in my opinion, it is) a, 350$ for a 2 people dinner at – again – a starred restaurant, to enjoy high quality original Italian food is quite reasonable a price. That’s what stars are there for too (unfortunately).

  45. Annabel Kantaria October 29, 2012 at 9:36 am

    It’s been interesting on so many levels watching this debate unfold. I’ve written on Telegraph Expat about what it’s taught me:

    http://my.telegraph.co.uk/expat/wp-admin/post.php?post=10148423&action=edit&message=6

  46. Alexis October 29, 2012 at 12:01 pm

    To ask to serve the Prosecco into the flute is a thing to peasants.
    Seems made on purpose for to tease the staff
    In Italy from many years, the best Franciacorta and Champagne are drunk in calyx for white wine.
    Sorry for my english.

  47. manuel tosetti October 29, 2012 at 3:59 pm

    Dear Sciur Brambilla,

    Dubai customers are not stupid like u imagine in Milan, we are used to have the best food of each nationality and your restaurant with such an approach will only last thanks to your location nothing else.People here can pay any price but they are by far clever than you can imagine. The time will give you an answer. If you want to taste an Octopus that is ten times better than yours and cheaper go to Sicilia, IBN battuta gate. Nice Chef and service and real italian cuisine.

  48. Giovanni B October 29, 2012 at 6:11 pm

    Interesting commentary from an opinion piece in today’s The Telegraph.

    http://www.telegraph.co.uk/comment/columnists/cristina-odone/9639869/Why-second-earners-think-twice-about-going-to-work.html

    “If the childminder is the most undervalued professional, a chef is the most overrated. Not a day goes by without a celebrity cook unleashing venom against the competition, restaurant critics, or, as when Nigella recently ranted against French cooking, an entire national cuisine. The latest lippy cook is Andrea Brambilla, the chef at the three Michelin star Giannino restaurant in Milan. Last week Brambilla launched a poisonous attack on a foodie blogger who dared complain about his restaurant’s new off-shoot in Dubai. I understand that his pride was piqued; but I find such self-importance indigestible. Today’s chefs regard their opinions and judgments as important. I long for the days of Elizabeth David, when cooks were read and not heard”.

  49. George W October 29, 2012 at 7:05 pm

    Andy Zyla,
    however hard anyone works this is not an excuse to be rude and of course any customer/blogger is entitled to an opinion as long as it is given in a tactful way, as Foodiva did.

    Paul,
    you are entitled to your opinion as long as this is given in a justified and polite manner and if you associate yourself with Brambilla’s way of behaving, then be it…My experience taught me that whoever cannot put up a good argument, then he/she takes the road of insulting/swearing…
    Regarding Trip Advisor, I agree this site is not the arbiter of quality but it gives an indication of the degree of satisfaction/ratings of clients of their dining experiences.

  50. Tony October 30, 2012 at 11:24 am

    I understand that some chefs have pride and they are really passionate about their products, but in the end of the day you guys are cooking because there are people on the other side who savor food and will pay in return for your product… Hence its our primitve right as consumers to give an opinion without being attacked just because we scratched someone ‘s ego…

I’d love to receive your feedback, so feel free to comment any time.

Facebook Comments